I was obviously not happy at this conclusion. He said, “The little fish is spending more energy to get away than the big fish because he is smaller, so the little fish is gonna be lunch.” I looked over at Tom and asked, “So, do you think the little guy is gonna get away or will the big one eat it?” Tom, in his perfect scientist mode, said the big fish is gonna eat the small one. They sped off towards the horizon, with the big fish in chase of the smaller fish, as far as we could see. They came racing past us going really fast. Right behind that fish was another about three or four feet long, skipping on the water at exactly the same pace as the smaller one in in the lead. We were waiting for a wave and talking when, far off in the distance, we spotted a fish about two feet long just skipping on top of the water, coming our way. The last, and most profound, was one day we were sitting in the water at a very remote spot with nobody else around for miles. I asked if he was talking about the octopus or me? “Ya know kid, that’s good eating,” he said. Tom was mad at me for not trying to spear it. ![]() Scared me so bad I still have nightmares about it. On the way to the beach, I ran eye to eye into an enormous octopus, like the size of one of those Krakens in the movies. It was always the guy that got the less amount fish that had to hold the bag, and that was always me. The next was one day when we had been spearfishing and I was swimming in holding the bag of fish we had nailed. Over the next few months we surfed and hung out together, shared countless stories and thoughts on surfboard design, jokes, lies, space travel, time travel and more cosmic craziness than I can describe here.Īs we got to the lineup Tom, who had not really surfed giant waves before that, looked at me and said, “So, do you think this is 20 feet?” I looked back and seriously replied, “Are you kidding? It’s at least 80 feet.” We should have laughed, but were both so scared that we just left it at that. Making things even better and more interesting, Tom Morey and his wife had also just arrived and rented the cabin next door. Upon arrival, we rented a small cabin on the hill overlooking the surf near Rincon, the main surf break. ![]() I was thinking spending some time down there prior to that would increase my chances, so I packed up and, along with my then pregnant-with-our-son-Clint-wife Cheryl, took off for an extended stay. ![]() There was a movement to try and get the island established on the surfing map and the next year’s World Championship was scheduled to be held there in November of 1968. I had been there a couple of months before to surf in the first Puerto Rico International Championship and liked it a lot. ![]() Rather than going into a bunch of historical stuff, I would rather share a little story about a few months I spent surfing with Tom in Puerto Rico, January though April of 1968.Īt that time, surfing in that part of the world was still fairly new. This one hit me hard as we had been close pals for going on 60 years, having first met in the early 1960s. Most of you will remember him as the inventor of the Morey Boogie, or more simply, the Boogie Board. 14, one of the brightest minds, coolest characters and smoothest surfers pulled out, Tom Morey. This has been a very hard year for the surfing community, many icons and legends have been lost as the months have rolled by.
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